Despite its commercialization during the last seven years, Sapa is stilla must-see on any northern Vietnam itinerary. On a clearday you will treated to views of steeply terraced rice fields, towering verdantridgelines, primitive mud-thatched villages, raging rivers and astoundingwaterfalls.

Nestled high in the Tonkinese Alps near the Chinese border, Sape was built asa hill station during French colonial days, to serve as a respite from stiflingHanoisummers. These days, weekends are still the biggest draw in this crumblinghill-tribe center. Visitors from the capital flock to Sapa for aglimpse of the famed "Love Market," a trek to local hill tribe villages, or anascent of Vietnam\\'s highest peak, Fan SiPan.

Some eight ethnic groups inhabit Lao Cai province: Hmong, Dao, White Thai,Giay, Tay, Muong, Hao and Xa Pho. The most prominent in town are the Red Dao,easily identified by the coin-dangling red headdresses and intricatelyembroidered waistcoats worn by the women, and the Hmong, distinguished by theirsomewhat less elaborately embroidered royal blue attire. Groups of ethnic Hmongyoungsters and women can be seen hauling impossibly heavy, awkward baskets ofwood, stakes, bamboo, bricks, mud and produce. Deep in the valleys surroundingSapa, the Muong Hoa River sluices a wild, jagged course among Giay, Red Dao andWhite Thai settlements, their tiny dwellings poking out of the neon rice fieldslike diamonds on a putting green. One- to four-day treks are offered by ahandful of outfitters. Guests sleep in tents or in the homes of villagers, theirgear hauled by Hmong porters. Be warned: Despite what the local innkeepers willtell you, both the Hmong and the Dao really do not enjoy having theirphotographs taken unless they\\'re paid for it. It\\'s a certainty that any brochureyou see of smiling, care-free ethnic hill people was shot under a Screen ActorsGuild contract.

Sa pa is famed for its "Love Market" – sort of a cross between a peacockmating ritual, a Middle Eastern arms bazaar, an Amish square dance, a badPavarotti concert and Bangkok\\'s Patpong (except here the people wear clothes).On Saturday nights, Red Dao hill tribe youths of both sexes congregate in aweekly courting rite, singing tribal versions of Loretta Lynn love songs to woothe opposite sex. The songs are highly personalized and boast of the composer\\'sphysical attributes, domestic abilities and strong work ethic. While Dao womenare indeed highly industrious, the men, it seems, prefer to spend most of theirtime drinking, smoking opium or sleeping, only occasionally slapping the rump ofa lethargic bovine moving more slowly than they are. Few of their songs, though,are about drinking, smoking opium, sleeping or slapping rumps.
Topping out at3,143 meters, Fan Si Pan has become the Mount Everest of Vietnam, with queues ofyuppie trekkers in their latest TravelSmith "totally-packable" rainwear formingmountaineering traffic jams at base camps. Footprint Travelcan arrange guided ascents.

Sapa itself is a somewhat bedraggled village meshing crumbling, mildewedFrench colonial architecture with the pencil-thin, brick-and-concretemini-hotels that have become so ubiquitous in recent years all across Vietnam.This neglected, cultural mishmash would be an eyesore in any place lessspectacularly scenic than Sapa. Because of its Shangri-la-like setting, Sapaactually seems quaint – a tranquil, restful village. Which is, of course, whatthe French originally intended the place to be. Amenities are limited unless youchoose to stay at the Four Star Victoria Sapa, a sprawling alpine campus nestleddiscreetly into a hillside in the center of town.

The best times of the year to visit Sapa are in the spring and fall. Summerstend to be rainy and muddy, while winter temperatures can drop to the freezingmark (Sapa ushered in 2000 with snow!). Weather really does make a differencehere, because the spectacular scenery is all but blotted out when there is cloudcover and rain. Ignore the other Nikon-toting tourists in the villages and getout into the countryside, where you just may still catch a glimpse intohill-tribe life of a couple of centuries ago.